Mirante do Gaviao: Luxury and Adventure in the Brazilian Amazon
- Dr. K.
- Mar 16
- 4 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
Stepping onto the grounds of Mirante do Gavião, we didn’t feel like tourists checking in. It felt quieter than that—as if the forest already knew we were coming. The Rio Negro flowed beside us, massive and still, while the layered sounds of the rainforest played in the background. The sky was clouded but glowing. We stood still for a moment before heading in.
A Rare and Reverent Journey
Our journey began in Manaus, a city shaped by the river. After spending time exploring the historic opera house and watching the waters of the Rio Negro and Solimões run side by side without mixing, we packed into a car and drove three hours deeper into the Amazon. The landscape changed slowly: highways turned to single-lane roads, and houses grew sparse. Then came Novo Airão, a small riverside town where the road ended and the forest truly began.
Mirante do Gavião is tucked just at the edge of this town, overlooking the Rio Negro and wrapped in trees. Raised walkways connect 13 stilted bungalows surrounded by over 70 species of native plants. Designed with care and minimal disruption to the land, the lodge feels less like a place that was built and more like a place that waited to be found.
A Stay That Let the Forest In
Our bungalow was shaped like an inverted canoe and built with locally sourced wood. The design was clean and open, the materials warm and unfussy. Floor-to-ceiling glass brought the river right into the room.
The bathroom was partially open to the canopy, and looking out of the balcony was how we spent every morning and many evenings. Nothing felt excessive. Everything felt considered.
Wildlife, River, and Memory
One morning, we went to see pink river dolphins. Another day, a bright green iguana appeared on a branch near our deck, still and alert. The wildlife came and went on its own terms. At night, we joined a guided boat safari. At one point, our guide turned off the motor and lights, and we drifted in silence. It wasn’t dramatic. It was just real. In the dark, you could hear how much life was around you.
Later that week, we took a sunset boat ride and, at our guide’s signal, my family jumped into the Rio Negro. The water was warm, dark, and surprisingly calm. I didn’t go in—I kept thinking about piranhas—but I could tell from their laughter that it was one of those moments that stays with you.
Back on the boat, someone reached for a towel only to find a grasshopper waiting inside. Everyone froze, then burst into laughter.
Everyday Life in the Amazon
In Novo Airão, we stopped at a woodworking initiative where young artisans learn to build with reclaimed materials. Mirante collaborates with organizations like the Association of Artisans of the Jauaperi River, Almerinda Malaquias Foundation and the Association of Artisans of Novo Airão, empowering locals through education and economic opportunities. It was in this context that we visited the wood workshop.
Later, we traveled by boat to a remote indigenous village. It wasn’t a curated experience. There were no formal presentations. Just people living in rhythm with the forest—drying fishing nets, carving tools, weaving baskets, children running around. We visited a small shop there. A hawk sat nearby like it belonged. Macaws flew past overhead. There was no need for explanation. Just observation and respect.
Plants That Heal
On a guided forest walk, we learned how locals use tree bark, roots, and sap for healing. One plant closed its leaves when touched. Another tree’s resin helped seal wounds. It was a reminder that this forest has always been a source of knowledge, not just scenery.
A Quiet Return Each Day
After each excursion, we returned to the pool—tucked between the trees and glowing softly by night. I didn’t swim much. I sat by the edge, feet in the water, thinking about everything we’d seen. There was no music. Just space.
Dining at Camu Camu
The meals were thoughtful and vibrant, with plenty of options for vegetarians. We tasted fruits we’d never heard of, paired with ingredients from nearby communities. Every dish told a story—from exotic caipirinhas infused with cupuaçu and açaí to thoughtfully prepared meals that highlighted the region’s rich culinary heritage. Each plate felt rooted in place, and the chef’s skill came through without needing explanation.
What Stays Behind
Mirante do Gavião is more than a lodge. It supports local nonprofits, collaborates with artisan groups, and helps preserve both cultural and ecological knowledge. That work isn’t highlighted in neon. But it’s there.
Before You Go
Book through Katerre Expeditions (not available on booking platforms)
Closest airport: Manaus, Brazil
Travel time: ~3 hours by car
Yellow fever vaccine: Recommended at least 10 days before travel
Visa: Check current entry requirements
Tips for Planning
Choose the all-inclusive package—meals and excursions are included and well curated
Pack light. Bring breathable layers, good insect repellent, and a waterproof daypack
Ask questions, but also listen more than you speak
Remember, the Amazon isn’t here to impress you. It’s here to continue being itself
Visiting the Amazon is a window into a way of life most of us never touch. Mirante do Gavião doesn’t ask you to admire it. It quietly invites you to pay attention.
A Request
The Amazon is home to an incredible range of species, many of which are sensitive to human presence. As visitors, we have a responsibility to observe without interfering. That means avoiding flash photography, not feeding or touching animals, and refusing activities that disturb their natural environment. Guides may offer options, but it’s up to us to say no to anything that feels intrusive. Every decision we make contributes to the delicate balance of this place, helping ensure it stays wild and intact for future generations.
