Khajuraho—a name that evokes ancient artistry, wilderness, and the simplicity of small-town India. Situated in the heart of Madhya Pradesh, this UNESCO World Heritage site remains a sacred and popular destination.
This wasn’t my first visit, but this time, my stay at The Sarai at Toria and the opportunity to explore the Panna Reserve added a distinct layer of charm to the journey.
How to Get to Khajuraho
Located in Madhya Pradesh's Chhatarpur district, Khajuraho has a peaceful small-town vibe but requires a bit of planning to reach.
The city is served by Khajuraho Airport (IATA: HJR), which offers a few flights from major Indian cities. Airlines such as SpiceJet and IndiGo operate daily non-stop flights from Delhi to Khajuraho, with a flight duration of approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes. However, flight schedules often change, and cancellations or diversions due to weather or operational issues are not uncommon. It’s wise to check the latest flight status and book tickets well in advance.
For those preferring alternative modes of travel, Khajuraho is well-connected by rail and road. The Khajuraho Railway Station (KURJ) is a significant hub with several trains originating and terminating there. Notable options include the KURJ INDORE JN BG EXPRESS and the Vande Bharat Express. Traveling by train provides an opportunity to experience India’s diverse landscapes. Alternatively, buses and taxis are available from nearby cities like Jhansi and Satna, offering flexible travel plans. Given the limited flight options, combining train or road travel with air travel often proves reliable.
We flew on an IndiGo flight from Delhi to Khajuraho. The pilot made one attempt to land but had to abort due to dense fog. On the second try, we landed safely—a relief, especially after hearing that a SpiceJet flight the previous week had to return to Delhi under similar conditions.
The airport itself was unexpectedly much larger than I had anticipated. It was a rather quiet but colorful place, and we took some photos to capture the moment.
When to Visit: The Best Seasons for Exploration
The ideal time to visit Khajuraho is between October and March, when the cool weather makes outdoor explorations enjoyable. Monsoons bring greenery but can complicate travel, while summer heat is best avoided.
Our Lodge: The Sarai at Toria
The Sarai at Toria offers an experience that feels both intimate and transformative. Situated along the Ken River, this eco-conscious retreat blends rustic charm with thoughtful luxury. From the moment we arrived, it felt as though we had stepped into a sanctuary where nature and comfort coexist in perfect harmony.
The lodge’s charm unfolded through its natural setting—kitchen gardens, fluttering butterflies, darting squirrels, and a symphony of bird calls.
Co-founded by Joanna Van Gruisen, a British wildlife photographer, and Dr. Raghu Chundawat, a renowned tiger conservationist, The Sarai at Toria in Bundelkhand, Madhya Pradesh reflects their shared passion for conservation and a commitment to preserving the region’s wildlife.
One evening, we watched a fascinating BBC documentary, produced by Joanna and Raghu, about their tiger-tracking adventures. Through this, we gained rare insights into the majestic big cats. Raghu’s extensive research on Panna’s tigers offered an intimate glimpse into their behaviors and challenges.
After the screening, Raghu shared his reflections on the forest’s wildlife. His deep connection to Panna’s tigers and commitment to conservation made our stay feel personal and inspiring.
Our Cottage at the Property
The eight cottages on the property were thoughtfully designed. Built from locally sourced mud and featuring two-foot-thick walls, they stayed cool during the day and warm at night. Handcrafted floors, finished with a glazed texture by artisans from Kerala, created an ambiance that felt rooted in the land.
Sustainability was woven into every aspect of the lodge.
Solar-lit pathways, water thermoses, citronella oil glass bottles in the bathrooms, water bowls for wild animals, and the absence of single-use plastics - all underscored their commitment to minimizing their ecological footprint. Even the artisanal toiletries, crafted by NEEV—an NGO supporting women in Bihar—reflected their dedication to uplifting local communities.
Dining at the Property
Meals at The Sarai at Toria were a celebration of fresh, thoughtful cooking. Outdoor dining was a wonderful way to enjoy sunny afternoons, though most days, we preferred the cozy indoor dining area.
Breakfasts ranged from hearty continental spreads to a special poha crafted with the distinct flavors of Indore. Lunches featured Indian thalis with vegetables freshly picked from the kitchen garden, rich pumpkin soups, and even gnocchi—a testament to the chef’s versatility.
Desserts, often made with locally sourced ingredients, were a highlight. Homemade ice cream cooled the heat of a spicy meal, and churros stood out as particularly memorable treats.
Tea in the afternoon was a delightful pause in the day, with options like honey lemon tea, adding to the charm of the experience.
One afternoon, I had a long chat with the gardener about the variety of plants grown on the grounds. The list was endless and so impressive!
In addition to picking us up and dropping us back to the airport, the lodge set up a few experiences for us:
A visit to the Khajuraho temples + a guide
Open-jeep safaris in the night and in the morning
Birdwatching in a boat
Let me share some details regarding these experiences.
Khajuraho Temples: Architectural Marvels
The temples of Khajuraho, built between the 9th and 12th centuries by the Chandela dynasty, remain an architectural wonder. We explored the temples with a knowledgeable guide who brought the carvings to life—stories of gods, humans, and even animals were etched into the sandstone with an unparalleled artistry.
What to Expect
Our driver dropped us off at the temple entrance, where our guide promptly handled the ticketing. A quick rickshaw ride brought us to the temple pavilion, and after presenting our tickets at the gate, we strolled toward the beautifully landscaped temple gardens.
As we wandered through the complex, the guide began explaining the architectural intricacies and cultural themes of the temples. While his knowledge was commendable, I found myself more drawn to the stunning stone carvings that seemed to transcend time. Their artistry spoke a language of their own, quietly telling stories etched into stone.
At one point, the guide touched on themes of women’s empowerment, linking it to motherhood in a way that felt outdated to me. While I appreciated his effort to connect the past to present values, it reminded me how much these temples rely on their carvings to convey universal truths—timeless and open to interpretation.
The temples of Khajuraho showcased the Nagara style of Hindu temple architecture, characterized by intricately carved spires and mandapas (pillared halls). Each structure seemed to rise effortlessly, crowned with ornate shikharas (spires) that reached toward the heavens.
The Western Group of Temples, the most famous and well-preserved, was home to the iconic Kandariya Mahadev Temple, as well as other significant structures dedicated to Hindu deities like Shiva and Vishnu, and Jain tirthankaras.
Among the carvings, the erotic sculptures stood out—not for shock value but for their deeper symbolism. They represented human desires intertwined with spiritual aspirations, complementing the broader themes of mythology, celestial beings, and the rhythms of daily life. The interplay of these elements added layers of meaning, inviting reflection and awe in equal measure.
Pro Tips:
Try to attend the light and sound show, narrated by actor Amitabh Bachchan. However, check its availability in advance, as it may not always be running
The Khajuraho Dance Festival, held annually in February, offers performances by classical dancers against the temple backdrop and may be fun to attend!
Make it a point to visit Aadivart, a state museum of tribal and folk art where representive houses of all the seven major tribes of Madhya Pradesh have been constructed. It is a great way to learn about the lives of these indigenous people
A VISIT TO THE Panna Tiger Reserve
A short drive from the lodge, Panna Tiger Reserve offered us a chance to immerse ourselves in nature’s rhythm. The best way to experience the reserve was on an open jeep safari, where miles of forest stretch before you. The feeling of driving through tiger territory, where these majestic creatures roam free, is thrilling in itself—even if tigers remain elusive.
We embarked on two safaris: a peaceful morning drive and an adventurous night safari.
In the morning, the forest was alive with bird sounds and sightings of deer, sambars and monkeys.
The night safari, on the other hand, felt more mysterious.
Spotting a tiger in the wild is rare, and while we did catch a fleeting glimpse of one lounging in the shade, it was the entire experience—the landscape, the bird calls, and the joy of simply being there—that stayed with me.
One special experience was breakfast in the forest. The staff at the lodge had packed some amazing food for us to share!
At one point, we rushed onto a boat, chasing the hope of a seeing a tiger, but even without success, the euphoria of the moment was unforgettable. The lodge naturalist was kind enough to share his binoculors with us.
A Morning on the Ken River
Though I didn’t personally join, some others in my group went on a birdwatching boat ride along the Ken River. They described the experience as quiet and calming, with glassy waters reflecting the morning light. My daughter, who joined the ride with my brother, found herself so inspired that she began writing her first book while surrounded by the stillness—a testament to how this place sparks creativity.
Why You Must visit Khajuraho!
Khajuraho offers a unique blend of history, culture, and nature - Marvel at the temples, soak in the wilderness, slow down and truly experience the world around you!
Whether you're an international traveler seeking a unique slice of India or an Indian visitor yearning for a serene escape, Khajuraho and its surroundings offer an experience that is both luxurious and grounded. A stay at The Sarai at Toria ties it all together, providing the perfect base to explore this enchanting region.
Remember - It’s not about chasing tiger sightings or checking off landmarks; it’s about the stories, the stillness, and the wonder that remain with you long after you’ve left.
